exciting, informative, snarky, and very likely fabricated tales of life as an american expat in london

the credits

by Jen at 12:43 am on 12.04.2006Comments Off
filed under: family and friends, world tour

now that we’re saying goodbye to people, it’s all starting to feel very real. and i don’t think that i have as yet properly acknowledged the help and assistance of all the friends and family who made this possible. like kim and andy, who lent us a freeview box which made the last 10 months more tolerable, who generously agreed to watch after most of our shit for the next six months, and who have been so steadfast and inspiring in so many ways, from inception to culmination.

like kerryn and tracey – who kept our “social calendar” on life support by continually asking us to do stuff, no matter how often we turned them down. by agreeing time and again to hang out with us, having a homemade dinner and watching a dvd on a saturday night, and calling it “entertainment”. By letting us invade their space with our luggage and live in their lounge these past two weeks. lending us their car. lending us their furniture. being more supportive than anyone has a right to ask their friends to be.

like my expat and other “traveller” friends, who have showed us how it’s done, shared their knowledge, shown genuine interest and excitement for us, and helped keep everything in perspective when it all just seemed too much to endure.

like the families. who have put aside their trepidation in order to be enthusiatic and excited cheerleaders. who have shown their caring and consideration in innumerable ways. who we will miss so very much, and who will think of us, worry about us while we are gone, and keep the homefires burning until we return safely.

thank you all. i cannot thank you enough. we could never have gotten this far alone.

and we will never be alone – for you are with us always.

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worry wart

by Jen at 9:55 am on 7.04.2006Comments Off
filed under: mundane mayhem, world tour

Woke up a little anxious, after having a dream in which an old, old issue was resolved – but not in the way i had hoped. and if you can’t get biased closure in your own dreams, where can you get it?

but also, i think i’m just feeling a bit unprepared. today is the first day since leaving work that we have no errands to run, and i feel like i should be *doing* something. what, exactly, i have no idea. what else do you do 7 days before you travel around the world? i’ve given myself the task of putting music on my ipod. a fascinating exercise – what was I *thinking* when I bought that janet jackson album??!

i don’t know – it’s difficult to know just how much i should be winging it. j made fun of me the other day, as i was re-organising my pack. i’m taking a 35 litre pack, which is only slightly larger than an oversized book bag. i deliberately chose something quite small to keep me from overpacking (and thus keep the number of instances where i chuck it off in tears and despair to a minimum.) but then i was asking him about travel towels (microfiber ultralight quicky-dry thingies) and he just laughed. i only have a single guidebook about china since that’s all i can carry at any one time, but am worried about not knowing enough about the other 12 countries. i know you learn as you go along, but surely i should have at least an *idea* of what I want to see? do i really want to get to laos without having a clue?

a few weeks ago, i wrote this in an email to a friend:

I’m finding myself surprisingly laissez faire about the whole thing. All I’ve really done so far is flick through an old Lonely PLanet on China. I suppose I’m bearing in mind that aside from the 2 or 3 things I really HAVE to see, I just want to *experience* it all. Y’know, I am convinced that the reason I was so blown away by Rome is because I didn’t even bother to open a guidebook before I got there. So I felt like my eyes were completely fresh to everything. I want that kind of experience. Some friends of our just got back from 6 months in S America… and I’m suddenly acutely aware of just how quickly this once-in-a-lifetime trip will pass.

i don’t know – i’m overthinking all this. where did that chilled out person go? i’ve done very well to remain relaxed and casual about the whole thing so far, but with the realisation that there’s a week left, i am starting to stress a little. j is overly relaxed – and that makes me a bit anxious as well.

but really, if i had to get on a plane tomorrow, i could. there’s nothing i need that i can’t buy on the road. nothing i have to do that couldn’t be done long distance if necessary. it’s a waiting game and i’m *looking* for things to worry about. sigh.

i’m practicing living out of my pack, which makes for some interesting hair days. i finally got a haircut the other day, as i’d not had one in more than 6 months whilst trying to grow it out. because unfortunately when i got it chopped last summer, it foolishly had not occurred to me that i would need to be able to pull it into a ponytail for the trip. hairstyles that you have to actually wash and “do” every day are very cute when you have your own bathroom and access to hot water, but aren’t really all that suitable when you don’t know where your next shower is coming from. when you have limited space, what’s the *one* single styling product you’d bring? I’m going with aveda wax. i have a feeling my bandannas are going to get a lot of use.

what about rain – do you bring an umbrella? or a waterproof jacket? do you really need a pack cover? will I be warm enough with just the fleece? or should I bring the wool cardigan that will be difficult to wash? do i spend £60 to get my malaria tablets here or wait and get them for cheap in bangkok? what if I have side effects?

see, these are the silly things i’m worried about. argh, i’m just in limbo and at loose ends – which doesn’t make for interesting blogging, so i’ll stop there.

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holding pattern

by Jen at 4:47 pm on 27.03.2006 | 1 Comment
filed under: mundane mayhem, world tour

well the countdown of workdays now stands at 4. there will apparently be a leaving do, whether i want it or not (nevermind that I really hate extra attention). the list of things remaining to be done includes getting the china visa, cutting off the utilities (on friday), getting a haircut (thursday), and… that’s about it!

we booked two nights in a hostel for when we land in beijing. because i get really cranky when i’m jetlagged *and* homeless.

spent most of the non-hungover weekend working on the bare bones of the trip website (please note, now added in the menu above. not much to see there just yet, but soon…)

i’m starting to get a little anxious/nervous – but in a good way. you know, like when there’s something big and important and a little bit scary, but you can’t wait for it to get here? butterflies.

and i’m avoiding finishing the packing – we’re like 83% packed, and I just can’t bring myself to face the other 17%. but really, it has to be done very soon. 10% of the other 17% is sorting through miscellaneous papers and old bills (which must be saved for immigration purposes) and assorted crapola. gah. also, I have to find good homes for all my plants. anyone want a plant?

other than that, all’s quiet on the western front. sorry it’s not more exciting at the mo’, but I’ll try and make up for that.

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whoa.

by Jen at 2:35 pm on 18.03.2006 | 4 Comments
filed under: mundane mayhem, photo, world tour

well.

no turning back now, I guess.

flat1

flat2

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jabs

by Jen at 7:07 pm on 13.03.2006Comments Off
filed under: blurblets, world tour

ugh. just went and got my lovely hepatitis A, typhoid, and yellow fever jabs.

Now I am just waiting for the angels of death to arrive.

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moving memories

by Jen at 6:36 pm on 12.03.2006 | 2 Comments
filed under: mutterings and musings, world tour

started packing up our stuff this weekend. as of next week, we’ll be living like nomads, as a friend is coming to collect all our furniture and take it away.

packing is such a bittersweet exercise. the unavoidable culling of personal detrius, sorting out one’s mementos and effects, and ranking their importance. What’s expendable, what’s not reflecting the shifting internal landscape.

i’ve moved 9 times since i left home after high school. i’ve left a trail of belongings like breadcrumbs through 4 cities, 3 countries. artefacts of the lives i used to lead, and my changing priorities. pieces of my old self shed like a skin. what i no longer needed or wanted or loved became junk. objects once infused with sentiment, now refuse.

and it’s a mundane process which drains them of their power – only time. the items i brought over in my suitcase when i first moved here to remind me of home, no longer carry that weight. home is no longer home. and when i revisit the items i left behind in basement boxes, they no longer seem so poignant. mementos less momentus. the attachment eases by degrees with the passing years.

but it’s tough, this paring down to the bare necessities. I’m a thrower by nature, but I’ve done this so many times now, that my instinct is to hold fast. i’m tired of discarding things because I have to. i want some stuff that is *mine*. things that feel like home. things that i keep just for the hell of it, just in case. i want the luxury of the non-essential.

nomadism isn’t all it’s cracked up to be.

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retail therapy

by Jen at 10:54 pm on 5.03.2006 | 1 Comment
filed under: world tour

how exciting! After more than a year of trying to *not* spend money, we’re actually starting to *buy* stuff for the trip. internet shopping is delightful, as long as you know what you’re looking for – not only can you compare without all the legwork, but it’s usually heaps cheaper. what did we ever do before the interweb? (more to the point, how did anyone ever do round-the-world travel?!? boggles the mind.)

Here’s what I bought this past two weeks:

j’s mp3 player… the creative zen micro photo. (which i will be holding ransom until he quits smoking!) lovely and flashy and not cheap. he better appreciate this…

zen microphoto

a fleece for me, and some light comfy sneaker-shoes from clarks

fleeceshoes

a bevy of accessories for ivanka the ipod, including a camera connector, travel charger, and case. also, new camera memory cards, and usb card reader.

cameraconnectorchargerreaderipod case

some lovely stuff from lush, including travel savvy stuff like solid shampoos and conditioners

shampooshampoo2

and finally, my pack – an osprey atmos. top of the line, light as air, and friggen expensive. but hey, i have to carry it around for 6 months, so it’s an investment, right?

osprey pack

somehow all the pre-trip shopping preparation makes it seem even more real…

…it’s really real, right?

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the definitive list

by Jen at 6:27 pm on 7.02.2006Comments Off
filed under: blurblets, world tour

things i will miss whilst we’re away…

  • the red sox’s entire 2006 world series season (i can *feel* it!!)
  • piper’s first birthday (and i know Kate will forgive me for putting this second!)
  • summer in london
  • vanessa’s new baby
  • the world cup
  • "friends"
  • friends
  • daily internet access

Things I will *not* miss whilst we’re away…

  • the tube
  • the tube during summer (!!)
  • working for the council
  • summer fashions in london
  • the world cup insanity
  • the tube
  • thrice daily "friends"
  • "big brother"
  • daily internet access

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it’s a long way ’round

by Jen at 7:59 pm on 4.02.2006Comments Off
filed under: world tour

by the time I finish writing this, my site may be down again. i posted via email, but apparently my cronjobs are not running either. any and all webhosting suggestions (or warnings) entertained.

so – to keep myself from checking my non-functional site every three seconds and obsessing while my bloodpressure soared throught the roof, i spent a very entertaining 5 hours watching “long way round”, which i originally bought for a b-day gift for andy, and then “borrowed” (cheeky, i know!) in case you haven’t had reason to see this, it’s all about ewan mcgregor and his best friend undertaking a round-the-world motorcycle journey. it’s really resonating with me as our own trip approaches. the need to just lose your head in experiencing the moments unfolding in front of you, immersion therapy. i think for me, this trip really will be a good bit of therapy. i’ve needed to challenge myself, grapple with the unknown, get a change of scenery to put it all in perspective.

I’ve mentioned this here before, but I was recently discussing it with other expats. I like the UK, and I love the opportunities I have here. And I invested a lot of time, money, and effort to get here on my own terms.

I wanted to live here for a few years. March will be 3 years I’ve been here. I think I’ve adapted well, and I don’t feel homesick. I (finally) have a small group of friends. I’m fairly content.

But: I feel very stateless. Here, I am a square peg which has forced its way into a round hole. I will always be a square peg, even if I have managed to fit. And I can’t go back to live in the US – it’d be like trying to fit a square peg into a triangular hole. I’m not sure I ever fit there to begin with.

So where do I fit? I never realised that by coming here I would change in ways that would make it impossible to go back. I always figured that would be *there* for me.

It’s a bit wierd feeling at times, being rootless. But I think that the upside of it is that I now think there are a lot of places I could be extremely content to live. I think, in a lot of ways, it makes me rather balanced – the fact that I’ve changed, means my happiness is no longer tied quite-so-tightly to something external.

For me, it’s like the idea that one has a soulmate. I don’t think people do – but I think there are lots of people I could love very deeply.

I love my hometown. I love NYC. I have lots of fond memories of other places I have lived. But I’ve “outgrown” them (for lack of a better word). There may be someplace I love passionately again. That place may be Canada. But I’ve adjusted to the idea that if there isn’t, that’s okay.

It *HAS* taken some adjustment. It takes a little mindshift to see it as a positive rather than a negative. You have to go through the feeling of losing that idea of having a place which matches how you feel. You can’t change back to who you were – but then you come to realise you really wouldn’t want to anyway.

If I had to put it in a nutshell, my happiness is now more about *how* I live, than *where* I live. I’m at peace with it, but it’s happened over time – only really in the last year have I embraced it. And now I think to myself, “I could go live in Canada.” “I could go live in South Africa”. It’s freeing.

I don’t think Ewan and Charlie are searching themselves for anything in particular on their trip. But I do think they’re surprised at what they find. I very much want that.

(as an aside, i am developing a complete crush on mr. Mcgregor. i never thought he was particularly attractive, but now that i’m watching him be himself, i am finding his sense of humour so very sexy. mmmm, mmmmm, mmmm. yes. )

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the excitement that makes everything painful

by Jen at 12:00 am on 3.02.2006Comments Off
filed under: mundane mayhem, world tour

oh happy happy happy dance! The tix are in the mail! Everything is paid and confirmed!

Work just bites, though. This is a bit of an email conversation I had with a friend recently, but I thought I’d post it here since it so succinctly captures how I am feeling lately:

Work has become insufferable. I was never the most motivated person to begin with, but now, I just resent having to leave the house every morning. I feel like standing up in the middle of my warehouse-like office and shouting, “I don’t give a shit.” Every second I spend there is a second of my life I’ll never get back, and it makes me seethe inside. I hate it with the white-hot burning intensity of a thousand suns.

So I’m wishing for a case of mono right about now – something that will get me out of the next two months of work, yet is not too painful or debilitating, and will help me drop 5 pounds or so. That’s bad: when you start praying for a communicable disease to get you out of work.

what I really want is a deus ex machina.

In the meantime, I am dilly-dallying as best I can, trying very hard not to accomplish anything. It’s getting harder, and even though J told me not to get excited until I officially hand my notice in (in three weeks), I can’t help it. But boy does it make the days drag. And drag some more. The excitement just makes everything else so painfully mundane.

still… hooray! we’re really, totally, officially going! there is a light at the end of the tunnel.

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belated birthday

by Jen at 5:47 pm on 12.01.2006Comments Off
filed under: mundane mayhem, world tour

Nothing too much interesting going on these days – just waiting for spring to be sprung, so we can blow this pop stand. The rest all revolves around lots of time spent indoors, using computer time (free) and dvds (nearly free) to entertain ourselves. So it was a really nice change of pace to go out for dinner with a fellow expat last night – enjoying seafood fajitas and margaritas at one of the few (decent) mexican places in all of london. that’s something you don’t usually factor in before you make the leap across the pond – the distinct lack of the culture south of the border that americans get to take for granted. so we had a good evening chatting and drinking, and it was lovely to a) leave the apartment and b) be out with a new friend and c) have her treat me to the meal as a belated birthday present.

arrived home today to a belated birthday package! my kay bee was soooo good to me – she sent me many many peeps (including the kind you decorate with icing, [the only way you can physically make a peep *more* sugary!] ) and all sorts of funny travel knick-knacks like toilet paper, and some wonderful fancy special patagonia travel pants!! which are a pretty pretty brick red and fit me perfectly!! see?

patagonia pants

my sis is the best. that is all.

Other than that, I wish i could think of anything even remotely interesting to say about my life. i’ve been reading a lot about china – fascinating history. I’m not really a history buff, but i clearly remember reading “the last emperor” at 17. i have to say, i think i’m probably looking the most forward to china out of everywhere we’re going, just because it’s *so* different, it will be the closest thing to cultural immersion. (south east asia is very tourist friendly, and south america i already have a little knowledge of. ) i’m also really excited to see new zealand – though it will be winter and quite chilly.

eh, this post is just starting to ramble, so i’ll wind up… ciao for now.

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obsessed

by Jen at 4:10 pm on 9.01.2006 | 2 Comments
filed under: classic, mutterings and musings, world tour

“working” from home today, and i have fallen into a deep well of travel blogs and rtw sites. the more i read the further away i seem to get from knowing where i want to go. i think that in order to figure out exactly what i want to get from this trip, i need to revisit the beginnings.

the roots go back to early 2002 – i was dating this guy (who, for anonymity purposes, we shall call here “p.”) who was headed on a trip to mount kilimanjaro (via london) for a month. i was incredibly jealous (and also, for reasons i can only chalk up to temporary insanity, rather attached at that point). i was missing him, and trying to pretend i wasn’t, so in a stroke of inspiration i started keeping a fictional round the world blog that i emailed to him daily. i spent hours at my work desk every day researching and writing, and scouring photographs, trying to make it as realistic as possible. i did white water rafting in the grand canyon. i went canoeing down the amazon to see the pink porpoises and trek through the rainforest. i hiked the inca trail to machu picchu. i climbed active volcanoes in hawaii. i dove in the waters of the galapagos islands and saw the worlds most ancient tortoise. i went to an elephant sanctuary in the himalayas. i went ballooning over the namib desert at sunrise. i saw the fjiords of norway, and the aurora borealis. not much *paid* work got done, but i was far too busy constructing my adventures to wallow in self-pity.

of course, i should’ve known the relationship would end in disaster when, after receiving my lovingly and painstakingly crafted project, his first comment was on how it seemed to be written from a very post-colonial point of view. and that, my friends, was the point at which he became known as “waste of space”.

however – i put so much time and effort into this little creative project that the idea of a round the world trip took deep root. but it wasn’t the kind of thing i thought could ever happen without the miracle of winning the lottery. not to mention the whole mindset is different – people in the u.s. don’t just drop out of society to go travelling. hell, people rarely take more than their allotted 2 weeks vacation to do anything. but coming over here, being surrounded by people whose raison d’etre is adventure, whose only purpose for living in london is to finance their travels… well, it’s an eye opener. these people work and save… and take off. and then work and save some more, to travel even further. suddenly, a round the world trip didn’t seem like such an impossibly difficult thing to accomplish. and meeting j… that’s when it all started to come together.

so i guess part of the purpose for this trip is to see some places before they change too irrevocably. places like cambodia and china and bolivia are quickly becoming hotspots. places like thailand and peru have already been “ruined” to some extent with the influx of western tourism. i’m not saying they’re not worth seeing – just that i believe it’s becoming impossible to view these places without the filter of the permanent influence of travellers. observing something fundamentally changes the nature of it, but add a dependence on foreign investment, and suddenly it is no longer “what it is”, but has become “what you want it to be”. you are no longer viewing that country’s native culture, but rather that country’s native culture in saleable form. globalisation is not, in and of itself, a purely evil or wonderful thing – there are both benefits and problems. but it does change things.

and the other part of this trip is to get in touch with that piece of myself that always identified with being a traveller. my first real travelling experience was as an exchange student to paraguay at 16. i knew almost nothing about the country before i arrived, and after the summer was over, i came back thinking very clearly “oh, okay, well that’s it then – i’m going to spend my life travelling.” i was certain that i would go into international development, and become a lifelong wanderer. my parents knew people who were career travellers – people who devoted their lives to the peace corps or missionary work. i thought for sure that i would finish university, do a stint in development, and then become a part of an ngo organisation that would send me to all kinds of places. it was so clear in my head that that’s how my life would be.

but alas, at first i took a liking to psychology, and then a new york boy, and “the plan” just kind of derailed from there. and in the meantime, real life has a way of intervening, and tying you down to things you never thought you’d need, but now would have a hard time doing without. but this is my chance to see the lifestyle and places i always thought i would be intimately familiar with – the adventures, the spontaneity, the languages. very few people can/choose to live that way, and this is my chance to catch a glimpse of it.

so i suppose that’s important to keep in mind as i plow through all this information, as fascinating as it is. while my trip will certainly not be complete without seeing the angkor wat, or the three toed sloths of south america, as ursula le guin once said, “it’s good to have an end to journey towards. but it’s the journey that matters, in the end.”

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it’s the little things

by Jen at 3:01 pm on 7.01.2006Comments Off
filed under: world tour

an entire 6 months touring the world and what am i most excited about? getting to experience the singapore airport, where they apparently have free movies, internet, video games, open air pool, sparkling hot showers, dedicated sleeping areas (with alarm clocks), orchid gardens, free beach and river tours of the city, and get you through immigration/baggage claim/customs in a half hour flat. in fact, several people have remarked there’s absolutely no need to get a hotel room, or even leave the airport, for that matter.

what can i say? i’m easy to please.

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bah humbug

by Jen at 5:34 pm on 22.12.2005Comments Off
filed under: holidaze, world tour

every 21st december, i thank god the winter solstice has come, and with it, the knowledge that the days will be getting longer from here on out. yesterday, on the shortest day of the year, the sun came up after 7am and by 3:45pm it was dusk.

so tomorrow is the last day before the christmas break. because we get both xmas and boxing day here, we have the following monday and tuesday off, so most people take the subsequent wed-fri and returning to work on the first tuesday of the new year. a nice long break of about 10 days when almost everything stops. you have to love the european holiday ethic.

christmas here is a very relaxed affair, in comparison to the frenzy it always seems to be in the u.s., although most of that is probably due to the fact that i have no where to go and no one to see. mostly it means eating chocolates and drinking all day long, having a little movie marathon, and just basically lounging the entire day. *everything* is closed, the tube isn’t running and all taxis are double fare if you can find one, so essentially you’re forced to spend quality time with the family (or in our case, the neighbours). boxing day is usually more of the same, with perhaps a visit to the pub. i’d like to go to a midnight mass somewhere, but with no public transport after 12, that’s a no go. shame, as there is something about hearing carols and bells peal through the uncharacteristically quiet darkness of a city that touches the spirit.

the next two days the shops will be a madhouse, so today, j and i went and stocked up for the weekend. our christmas dinner will be a brown-sugar baked gammon (ham) and roasted potatoes, which is a bit of a break with tradition for me, but after pre-thanksgiving at home and thanksgiving here, i’m all turkeyed out. things feel a bit half-hearted for me, and i think most of that is because we’ve been on such a strict budget for the past 10 months, that we’re both just sick of it. there’s nothing glamourous about stretching pennies and nothing fun about being skint at christmas. i’m just burnt out with making do, and i think j is too – we’ve been bitchy with each other the past day or so, and it’s not very cheery. don’t get me wrong: i am absolutely aware that we’re incredibly lucky, as this self-enforced deprivation is entirely voluntary – we have enough to eat, a roof over our heads, good jobs. but it does wear your nerves thin, and when you start carping at the only other person who can identify with how you’re feeling, it doesn’t exactly engender tidings of comfort and joy.

but. this too will pass, and i just have to keep in mind that when i’m climbing the great wall of china, or looking out over machu picchu, or kayaking in fiji it will be worth every cranky moment and “woe is me” wallow i’m having now. the lack of presents under the tree, turning down holiday invitations, begrudging myself all the festive touches which make the season special but add up on the wallet… it sucks. i am the veruca salt of yuletide. it makes me grumpy and grinchy and cross. i’m just so completely impatient that the idea of delayed gratification is a thoroughly abstract concept.

maybe kris kringle will leave some valium in my stocking.

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ack!!!

by Jen at 7:41 pm on 11.12.2005Comments Off
filed under: world tour

I have only just now realised how very close our round the world trip is!  I mean, xmas is nearly upon us, and after the new year, there’s only three months of work left and we’re outta here! (I’ll be finishing my job at the end of March, 2 weeks before we leave…)

It’s seemed so far away for so long, that I haven’t really been thinking about it, except in a very abstract way.  I haven’t researched anything.  Obviously, a great deal of the itinerary will be flexible, but I want to at least know what things I don’t want to miss.

Also, need to figure out how to structure my blog.  Updating from the road should be simple enough, since I can blog by email.  I need to think about storage for all the zillions of photos, since I’ll have to download them at some point, and internet cafes are probably not too conducive for uploading 300MB worth of pix at a time.

Irrespective of that, though, is deciding whether to just integrate it into my existing blog, or make it a separate blog all together.  Also, changing the layout to make it easier to do stuff like maps and stuff.

So much to think about/arrange/research/buy and so little time! I have decided I really, really want this pack because it’s like carrying *air*.  And considering that no matter what kind of pack I have and no matter how little I bring, I will, at some point during the 6 months, want to throw my pack into the nearest lake, I figure if it cuts down on that impulse even a little, then it’s a good investment.  I already bought these trail shoe/sandals which just feel incredible on my feet.  I also need some of these pants for travelling and this black/green reversible skirt (I know, I am sooo not a skirt person, normally, but a long, loose skirt is sooo comfy on long flights).  Also, maybe this first aid set – I’m a bit undecided on that.  Part of me says bringing syringes is overkill – the other part of me says I don’t want to need a shot in rural Laos and not have something sterile.  I need a travel towel and a travel clothesline and a travel alarm clock and a usb card reader and a big memory card (maybe santa is reading!).  Soon we have to start getting our yellow fever and hepatitis and tetanus jabs.  decide whether or not we’ll need malaria pills, etc., etc., etc.

Anyway, in the spirit of documenting all this, I’m starting a new category… updates to follow as I start to get my shit together!

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slow dawning

by J at 4:33 pm on 5.10.2005Comments Off
filed under: travelology

realisation that we will be travelling through most countries at either the coldest or wettest time of year. for each and every fricken country. I have basically signed on to subject myself to being miserable with the weather for 6 months straight. I am probably the only person in the world who looks at a 35C average daily temp in Thailand, and thinks, “oooh, i’ll probably be a little chilly in the shade”

I kind of knew already we weren’t selecting the most optimal weather timing (monsoon season in sea, winter below the equator). but it did not occur to me just how bad it might be.

< *sigh*>

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the world is our oyster

by J at 4:22 pm on 24.09.2005Comments Off
filed under: travelology

They’re booked! After all the saving and discussing and dreaming, we have bit the proverbial bullet and booked our tickets.

We leave on 15th April for 6 months! Our itinerary:

London to Beijing. We spend 4 weeks in China, and fly out of Hong Kong to Bangkok. We spend 8 weeks in Cambodia, Laos, Vietnam. Fly out of Bangkok to Singapore – spend 3 days there. Fly Singapore to Sydney – 1 week in Oz. Fly Sydney to Fiji – 2 weeks in Fiji. Fiji to Auckland – spend 2 weeks meandering down the north and south island in New Zealand, fly out of Christchurch. Christchurch to Santiago Chile – 2 weeks travelling overland through the mountains to Lima, Peru then spending 3 weeks in Lima. Fly Lima to San Jose, Costa Rica – 2 weeks of beach and rainforest in Costa Rica. San Jose to London (via short stopover in Miami).

I can’t believe we’re really going to do it! Oh my god.

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caution: slippery when wet

by Jen at 9:31 pm on 16.08.2005Comments Off
filed under: this sporting life, travelology

welcome once again, gentle reader!

whew! been an uncharacteristically busy few days over here in “the big smoke” (a nickname which makes me think londoners are just jealous of nyc’s “the big apple”, but that’s the best they could come up with.)

Anyway, first off, big ups to my homie k-dawg, who managed to snag us tix to see the filthy and fabulous foo fighters! I have the undeniably disturbing hots for mr. dave grohl, and am already shopping for an appropriately naughty pair of underthings to fling at him as a token of my deep personal affection. plus, the foos just rock the house. and I will finally get to see my beloved boys when they come through earl’s court in december. I may even have to start one of those annoying and ubiquitous countdown tickers for my email sig. preferably one featuring a cute animal or flower.

like this:


now you can all countdown along with me!

friday night was yummy – j and i, k&t all went to a tex-mex restaurant for dinner, and I had dos equis cerveza and sizzling seafood fajitas, which were muy bueno. i have to admit, i was very pleasantly surprised, since i was a bit skeptical about finding decent mexican in london. particularly having experienced its track record with chinese food (a word to the wise: adding brown gravy and celery does not chinese food make), and the fact that it’s, ya know, like a loooong way from mexico. sometimes cuisine from the americas tends to get lost in translation somewhere over the atlantic. not to mention the “american” foods which i’ve never encountered in my 30 plus years in the states (hot dogs in a can!?!?). in any case, the fajitas were slammin’, so “cafe sol” has high marks in my book.

saturday, j and i had been planning a day trip to get bruce (the car) a little exercise and fresh air, and get us off our asses and out of london. k-dawg once again came through and recommended whitstable, a quaint little seaside village. we headed out in spite of the ominous weather, and spent a cute little half day eating fish and chips, and drinking at the local pub. a few scenic shots here. meanwhile, back in “the big smoke”, we headed down to earlsfield for the evening, to meet up with k&T and chris and tonia, mostly so i could spend some quality baby cuddling time with jude.

sunday , kerryn, trace, and myself headed off to portsmouth for some sailing! some of kerryn’s work friends had wrangled a lovely boat for sunday and monday, so we shivered our timbers and headed off for the isle of wight. being from boston, and growing up with a nautical dad, i realised just how much miss proximity to the ocean! The weather turned out much better than anticipated, and we had lots and lots of alcohol and food on board, so really it was like a mature version of a booze-cruise. We got in some real sailing, and though I was sure I’d forgotten everything since I haven’t been on a boat in 3 years, it turns out it’s just like riding a bike, if you’ll pardon the mixed metaphor. Tacking and jibing and trimming the sails all came flooding back to me, and you’ve gotta love the sailing lingo – the mainsail, the jenny, the painter,the halyard, the boom, the dinghy. even if you don’t know your bow from your stern, you sure can sound impressive! ahoy matey!

the less fun part is that 24 hours later, i still feel like I have a deck swaying and bobbing beneath my feet. i have absolutely no problems with sea sickness – it’s only since being back on land that i feel queasy! yet another symptom of aging – the inner ear balance disappears virtually overnight. who knew???

view the watery pics here

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waylaid wedding

by J at 12:40 pm on 10.07.2005Comments Off
filed under: family and friends, travelology

well, i’ve been far to tired/busy/pre-occupied to write about my sister’s wedding, so i’ll do that now.

i left here on the thursday, and got into boston about 1:00pm. which is actually really sucky, because none of my family was able to take off work to come pick me up. not that i am incapable of taking public transportation – just that after a long and iritating flight, schlepping around another hour and a half of trains and buses is really kinda the last thing you feel like doing. but anyway, i’m a big girl, and made it to my mum’s house. she got back from work, and my sister and niece and nephew and newest babyniece all came to visit.

oh. my. god. the newest babyniece is named mackenzie, and i am so completely head over heels in love with her. i could eat her up with a spoon. my brother has more than his share of problems, but goddamn he makes some beautiful babies. she is sweet and gorgeous and so fucking happy in the way only an eight month old can be. i want her. forget about any of my own children. i want *her*.

anyway, friday was spent in vain at the dmv, yet again trying to get my license sorted. no dice. they truly suck ass. then my mum and i had lunch, did some shopping and had a lovely dinner at home.

saturday i got up bright and early and fought the horrendous holiday weekend traffic all the way to wellfleet (3+ hour drive!) to see vanessa & ben & gigi, alex & mike & newbaby zach, and maggie. we hung out at the pond, and watched the babies play in the water. it was soooo good to see them all, though I had to head back to kate’s place for the evening.

spent the night at kate’s place, and then it was the wedding day! the weather was perfectly gorgeous. kate got married at her bio-mom’s inn in yarmouth, which was just lovely. kate looked stunning (quite an accomplishment at 6 months pregnant!) and it was a small intimate and elegant affair, with a heavy red sox theme, as befitting the sports nuts we all are. i know that elegant and red sox in the same sentence sounds like a contradiction in terms, but you’ll just have to believe me when I tell you she pulled it off. Most importantly, they are really happy together – kind, easy, fun, and loving. that’s all that matters to me, and i can see them being happy together long into old age. i am genuinely touched by their love for each other.

monday morning, i headed into boston to meet up with johanna and see her baby miles – we spent a good long while walking and talking about her new life. i’m so glad i got to spend some time with her.

and then i had to catch my flight. it was all over with very quickly, but i’m so glad i got the opportunity to see the friends i have missed so dearly. and i wouldn’t have missed my sister’s wedding for the world.

it’s hard not being around. but sometime’s life is like that. you just gotta take your opportunities when they come around.

in case you missed it, the wedding/baby/family/rare-jen-in-a-dress pics are here

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downpours, dumb blondes, and drinking in dublin

by J at 6:13 pm on 7.06.2005Comments Off
filed under: travelology

so today i thought i’d dress up for work a bit. usually i do the whole “smart casual” look, unless i can’t be bothered, in which case, i wear cargo pants resembling pyjama bottoms. but i’ve recently done my annual ironing (no, i’m not kidding. i drag all my clothes out of the closet and iron all of them in one go, these usually occurs about once a year and comprises the entirety of my ironing experience.), and so had a lot of freshly pressed office clothes. I put on this bright blue button down shirt and some black trousers, and have been getting compliments on the shirt all day. then i make my annual ironing joke, and say thank you. anyway, i now remember why i don’t wear this shirt very often, and it’s not because i don’t iron. it all came to me in an instant when i took off my jacket going into a meeting, and realised i was a little chilly. one of the buttonholes is a bit too big, and one of the buttons a little too loose. yep, you guessed it – i flashed my boss.

realised i haven’t told you about the dublin trip yet. last Saturday, j and i went to dublin for the day, as a belated birthday present. we left early in the morning, and came back late at night. you can do that when you live in the uk.

our flight was scheduled to depart at 7:30 am, so were up and out of the house by 4:30, thinking that would give us plenty of time. big, big mistake.

i don’t know why i always think it takes exactly an hour to get everywhere. for example, ask me how long it takes to get to the airport, and i’ll tell you an hour. how long to get to siberia? oh, about an hour. in reality, of course, it takes an hour just to get out of london. this does not include the extra twenty minutes needed to wander around clapham common 3 times trying to find the sign for the 205 south circular heading east. sometimes the uk is just dumb. add a 50 mile stretch of motorway to your journey *after* you get out of london, and what you end up with is two very late boys and girls.

we made it to the airport by the skin of our teeth, made it to the plane (after the security guard asked j to remove his baseball cap so he could “search his sunhat”. now, to my mind, a sunhat is a big floppy straw thing with a bow that ties under the chin, so who calls a baseball cap a sunhat??? someone over the age of 80, that’s who. this poor man could barely see over the xray machine.) and arrived safe and sound in the centre of dublin by 9:30. after wandering around for some breakfast, we ended up in a coffee shop, where as we were lazing on the couch, i opened the drawer to the giant coffee table and found some lovenotes between strangers in the drawer – two ships that pass in the night kinda thing. it was cute and romantic, and i took it as an auspicious omen.

unfortunately that auspiciousness did not extend to the weather, which was intermittently spitting on us or blindingly sunny from one moment to the next, the entire bloody day. j will never again make fun of my pink umbrella. it also meant we spent a good deal of time indoors, immersing ourselves in the local saturday culture, namely hanging out in pubs drinking guinness. which is not a bad way to spend a saturday, all in all.

anywhoo, we wandered around some more to see the castle, (which looks not at all like a castle, but more like a castle mashed with a 60’s office building) and the churches (lots of tourbuses full of old age pensioners trying to work digital cameras with shaky hands), and the shopping district (no surprises there) and settled down for the afternoon in the temple bar district, starting off at the aptly named temple bar. which was actually quite cool, until the hoardes began to arrive, and we found ourselves surrounded at our table by a group of indeterminate europeans (polish? flemish? we never could quite figure out what language they were speaking) who were drinking wine directly above my head whilst ashing over my shoulder. in the end, it didn’t matter where they were from – turns out “rude” is the same in any language.

we decided to go for lunch (irish stew, natch) and then wandered around a bit more, before ending up back at a bar. we were seated outside people watching, and there was a young blond southern woman seated at the next table. the panhandlers were getting pretty annoying, working up and down the street multiple times. and each time, this woman instead of saying “sorry, no” and turning away, kept telling them she didn’t have any change, or going into this elaborate discussion as to why she couldn’t help them out. the bigger mistake was continuing to talk to them after they made her for someone who, if they harrassed enough, would hand over bills. she just had that look about her. anyway, this was all very entertaining to watch for several minutes, but then an old mother, teenage daughter, and baby came over. i’m not going to call them gypsies, but they were pretending they didn’t speak english, and the blond lady was trying to explain to them that she paid for her drink with a credit card, and didn’t have any cash. after watching her struggle for a while, i *had* to do something, because even i am not that coldhearted. i came over to her table, put myself between her and the beggars, and put on my firm-confrontational attitude with them, telling them to leave. they just would *not* go, kept pretending they didn’t understand, but it’s amazing how quickly the lightbulb came on when i said i was going to get the manager. she watched me go into the bar, smiled at me through the window, then skipped off down the street. ha!

this of course lead to a conversation with the blond, who was a law student from Louisiana. Typical spoiled “travelling on Daddy’s money” kinda girl, but more liberal than I expected, and we somehow ended up talking about politics and the war on drugs, when suddenly it was time to go catch our plane home.

strange things about dublin:

it’s not very big. we walked the whole downtown about three times during the course of the day.

it’s chockablock with americans. i swear i heard more americans in 24 hours there, than i have in my entire 2 years in the uk.

it’s not very old. for such a historic city, there was amazingly little old stuff around. or maybe there is if you look for it, but we didn’t really have the time.

it doesn’t have nearly enough atms.

anyway, it was a fun day, and nice to visit a new place.

view the pubcrawl here.

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a wet and woolly week in mushypeas, mass.

by J at 12:40 pm on 27.05.2005Comments Off
filed under: classic, family and friends, travelology

back from my visit with my sis in mashpee. of course the entire time I was there, it was pouring and 50F (that’s 10C for you metric fans). and in spite of all the rain, it was still well nigh impossible to get sox tickets. the week was very low key as a result – all plans went out the window, since the weather was soooo not co-operating.

things i enjoyed:

american appliances. i did like 18 loads of laundry, just because i could. clothes that come out all fluffy and warm, and wrinkle free. it’s a good thing. miraculous. also, all hail the built in shower and dishwasher. long live mixer taps.

old navy. it’s rather sad that i get so excited about this, but cheap staples are apparently what passes for my fashion sense these days. gone are the good old days when i could drop a shitload of money on cute clothes. shifting priorities dictate that all clothing be sturdy, cheap, and multifunctional. old navy fits this bill to a tee. in fact, i am loathe to admit it, but i have not bought a single thread of clothing since the last time i went to the states. also, cheap shoes. footwear is just crazy expensive over here.

panera bread. a chain similar to what you’d expect if au bon pain crossed with starbucks, which makes it a guilty pleasure but they do amazingly delicious salads. i love salad like nothing else. mmmmm, salad.

star wars episode 3. saw this and enjoyed it much more than expected. but then again, it’s the payoff movie, so it really couldn’t go too far wrong.

american marlboros. they’re not the same here.

dunkin donuts coffee and good customer service.

peace and trees and cranberry bogs and quaintness and fried clams and beer. essence of cape cod.

spending time with the sis. seeing the family.

things i did not enjoy:

rain. more rain. cold. smoking in the aforementioned rain and cold.

the department of motor vehicles. there’s a long convoluted story there for another time. suffice to say vermont is the most ass-backward state in the union. don’t ever get a speding ticket there. especially doing 95 through a work zone.

being unable to drive because of vermont.

the incredible amount of “eating out” americans do, and the portions that could feed a family of four. i felt compelled to eat a lot. I put on a good 5 pounds in a week.

too much george bush. not enough peace, love and understanding.

insane amounts of choice. it took me ages to decide on anything, from the kind of toothpaste to buy, to what to watch on television. life should not be that hard.

big cars.

babies r us. went with kate to register for her baby stuff. what a fucking racket!!! brainwashing and excess to the nth degree. no one *needs* a 25$ babywipe warmer, or a 300$ stroller cum baby-s.u.v., or 160$ crib sheets. by the time i got out of there, i felt bitter and cynical about really cute babies, and that is saying a lot. i refuse to buy into that mentality. so i bought them a digital camera instead. very useful, but specifically *not* baby-oriented.

flight back was then delayed for an hour, i got seated between mister should’ve-bought-two-seats-so-i-don’t-have-to-completely-encroach-upon
-someone-else’s-personal-space-with-my-fat-ass, and mister dog-shit-breath, and surrounded by no fewer than 4 screaming children. *but*, i got through immigration in a breeze (yay for resident visas!) and customs did *not* go through my 8000 pounds of baggage with far in excess of the £145 personal allowance. brought back lots of clothes, food, and a queen size foam mattress pad (since i can count the number of springs in my back every night, and egg-crate foam covers don’t seem to exist here, but cost only 15$ in the states, tell me it wasn’t worth it??). of course, I then had to lug this shit all the way back from heathrow, up and down multiple sets of stairs, in 28C heat. sometimes i surprise myself.

not many pics, considering the lack of activities, but will get the few i do have up here soon.

off to nap now. nighty nite.

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